Story
of Baltimore Pho in the Hollins Renaissance
Jim
Collins
When I first visited Hollins
Market back in 2002 and admired the area’s magnificent architecture,
many storefronts were vacant and boarded up. I spent weekends on the street
talking to anyone who’d listen to my questions. We spoke about the
community. We often found ourselves talking of the Dreams -- and
Broken Dreams –- all around us. Everyone was open and friendly;
the
conversations were remarkably without preconceptions.
I ended up purchasing several commercial
properties and many have now reopened with new businesses. The local Community
Association, the new Mayor Sheila Dixon, City Councilwoman Agnes Welch,
and many individuals all worked
to bring change. By 2007, it seemed like a perfect time to bring in a
new Gathering Place sort of restaurant. But I couldn’t find any
takers for the property where the popular Cultured Pearl restaurant once
stood. So, a few of us decided to do up
the old place ourselves.
Our Dream was to offer exceptionally
tasty and healthy food at a reasonable price -- and in a friendly atmosphere.
I couldn’t help remembering my two years in Vietnam as a civilian
adviser back in the late 60’s when I’d enjoyed delicious and
mouth-watering ‘pho’ every day. Two good friends from those
days in the Mekong Delta, Carl and Kim-Dung Robinson, had moved to Australia
where they ended up running a highly-successful Vietnamese restaurant
in Sydney, the Old Sàigòn. They offered to come all the
way to Baltimore and help us get started. We wanted to highlight not just
‘pho’ but other gourmet Vietnamese delights handed down from
generation to generation in Kim-Dung’s family in Gò Công
Province, a region renowned for its tasteful cuisine. We recruited Larry
Huynh as our Executive Chef who remembers as a small child the tongue-licking
smells and savory tastes from his mother’s own kitchen and her small
rural restaurant ---- and who is dedicated to recreating them for your
enjoyment. And so Baltimore Pho was born.
Baltimore Pho is not just a Baltimore
restaurant. Nor is it just a Vietnamese restaurant. It is a Baltimore
Vietnamese Restaurant that combines history, influences and ideas recast
and mingled together for today.
A couple examples:
1.When I finally returned to Vietnam
for the first time since the war in 2004
and re-entered Gò Công where I’d worked, I wondered
how I would be treated.
With indifference or hostility? To my surprise, I could not have imagined
the reception and the genuine smiles and warmth of those who still remembered
me.
At a local restaurant, the owner approached and gave me a hug. He was
the local Viet Cung District Chief during the war. Inviting me to enjoy
the meal, he said,
“I am glad you have returned. I want you to know there was never
anything
personal with you during the war. We just wanted to run our own country.
That’s all.”
2.And then back in Hollins one day,
I was recalling those initial impressions
of the area -– the Dreams and Broken Dreams -- to an elderly African-American
gentleman who’d grown up here in the 1930’s. “That’s
not surprising,” he told me. “Hollins has always been like
that. It is a microcosm of Baltimore. There were a couple blocks of Germans,
a couple of Lithuanians, a couple of Irish, Jews, Italians, African-Americans
and so on. We all went to each other’s weddings and funerals. We
all knew each other.”
That is the spirit of diversity, understanding
and unity we bring to this restaurant. And what better place than Baltimore’s
Hollins Community whose soul has understood this spirit for generations?
We know how old prejudices and boundaries only hold everyone back. Baltimore
Pho crosses over them and pays homage to the people of this wonderful
city who work every day to achieve their Dreams amidst the Dreams and
Broken Dreams of those before them. Likewise, we pay homage to the people
of Vietnam who also work every day to achieve their own Dreams amid the
changing fortunes of their beautiful country.
So, welcome to Baltimore Pho! We invite
you to enjoy the food, drink and warm feelings we share with you. We hope
you’ll treat this as your Second Home and that we’ll see you
again and again. And do let us know if we can do anything more to help
you enjoy your visit.
|